September 11, 2016; Day 172, 71 Miles to Go
When I was writing up my journal last night I noticed L&C had mentioned some tide in the area. I’d dragged the boat completely out of the water and tied it to a fallen tree, so I wasn’t worried.
About 1:30 though, something woke me up. A clunk. I grabbed my headlamp and was very surprised to see my kayak floating! It was tied off but I dragged it up higher and tied it up again. I looked up the high tide: 7 feet! Over a hundred miles from the ocean!
When I launched out onto the dark river in the morning the current and falling tide were adding over 1 mph to my paddling speed. I left my headlamp on with the light blinking until it got light.
In places there were crazy numbers of fishermen out, flotillas of fishing boats, in some places many of them anchored in a long line across the current. The wind was very light but I was often dealing with considerable waves because of wakes from high speed boats. I took off my hat, forgetting about my headlamp which I was still wearing although it was turned off. That’s the last I saw of it.
Ocean fog/clouds were to the west. Two ships were anchored along the shore, actual oceangoing ships. They were a long way from saltwater. Yesterday I saw a big sea lion with a salmon.
I didn’t notice any good places to buy more food as I paddled past St. Helens and Columbia City. I used my phone to find a convenient store near the river. When I was getting set to walk up to the store a young couple stopped to chat. I asked them how secure they thought my boat might be if I left it here for a little while and they kindly offered to drive me into town to the grocery store while the other one kept an eye on my boat.
Soon I had groceries, water and a new headlamp. Thanks you two!
I had been making extremely good time but when I launched the tide had turned and a headwind had come up. Now I was working for my miles again. Happily there were many fewer fishing boats. I watched as three tugboats worked to get a large ship docked. Another big ship I had seen in Portland came downriver. I was surprised at how quiet it was, much more quiet than the tugs or fishing boats.
I managed to make 40 miles again today. I am camped on the Lewis and Clark site of November 5, 1805. Colter
Clark: Novr. 4th Monday 1805… We landed at a village 200 men of Flatheads of 25 houses 50 canoes built of Straw, we were treated verry kindly by them, they gave us round root near the Size of a hens egg roasted… The Indians at the last village have more Cloth and uriopian trinkets than above I Saw Some Guns, a Sword, maney Powder flasks, Salers jackets, overalls, hats & Shirts, Copper and Brass trinkets with few Beeds only. dureing the time I was at Dinner the Indians Stold my tomahawk which I made use of to Smoke I Serched but Could not find it… met a large and Small canoe with 12 men from below the men were dressed with a variety of articles of European manufactory the large Canoe had emeges on the bow & Stern handsomly Carved in wood & painted with the figur of a Bear in front & man in a Stern… Those Indians were all armed with Pistols or bows and arrows ready Sprung war axes &c. Mount Hellen bears N. 25 ° E about 80 miles, this is the mountain we Saw near the foks of this river. it is emensely high and covered with Snow, riseing in a kind of Cone perhaps the highest pinecal from the common leavel in america…
Clark: Novr. 5th Tuesday 1805 a Cloudy morning Som rain the after part of last night & this morning. I could not Sleep for the noise kept by the Swans, Geese, white & black brant, Ducks &c. on a opposit base, & Sand hill Crane, they were emensely numerous and their noise horrid. We Set out at Sun rise & our hunters killed 10 Brant 4 of which were white with black wings 2 Ducks, and a Swan which were divided, we Came too and Encamped on the Lard. Side under a high ridgey land, the high land come to the river on each Side. the river about 11/ 2 mile wide. those high lands rise gradually from the river & bottoms—we are all wet Cold and disagreeable, rain Continues & encreases. I killed a Pheasent which is very fat—my feet and legs cold…
Trip overview and route map with position updates: