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Canoeing the Mississippi River

My name is Bruce Nelson. I fought wildfires for a living, based out of Fairbanks, Alaska, where my smokejumper friends call me Buck. In the fall of 2000, I’d been fighting wildfires for well over 20 years. I realized that it was time for me to take a summer off to recharge my batteries and to enjoy some of the adventures I’d been dreaming about. In August of 2000 I left for six weeks alone in the Alaska wilderness (see photos here.) During a fall and winter of travel, writing and planning, I decided that I’d attempt a thru-hike of the Appalachian Trail. The “AT” proved to be one of the greatest adventures of my life. It went so well that I realized I would finish with nearly two months to spare. Along the trail in Maine one day, a hostel owner lent me his canoe.Out on the lake, I paddled along and gazed at Katahdin, the spectacular mountain marking what would be the end of my hike. It was then that it struck me that a long trip by water might a be perfect follow-up adventure. A canoe trip would be a totally different type of adventure, but where? How about the Mississippi? How long would it take to do the Mississippi? Can you even paddle the whole river in an open canoe? What kind of canoe would I need? I had a couple of days of rest in Millinocket, Maine, and there I had time to do a little research on the internet. From reading two or three accounts from other canoe trips, it looked like, if the river was high enough, (and therefore fast enough) I’d have time to make the journey in the 2 1/2 months left in my summer. Sounded good to me! Below you will find the beginning of some of my photos from the river. Included are some stories and information about the adventures I encountered along the way.

Lake Itasca

Lake Itasca
August 15, 2001, Source of the Mississippi

My parents, and niece and nephew (Markus and Annelise,) drove me up to Lake Itasca. From the landing at the Lake, I canoed the short distance to the outlet that marked the official start of the Mississippi. Here people photograph themselves wading across the river or crossing on the stepping stones. After portaging through the crowds, I launched into the shallow waters and waved goodbye to the family. At first the canoe frequently brushed the bottom of the shallow “river.”

Sweepers across the headwaters

Although I didn’t run across the countless beaver dams I’d heard of, I did run across many trees across the river. It was obvious not many people canoed this stretch of river. Nearly always though, I could find a safe way through without having to portage.

Mississippi River thru a culvert

There were a number of low bridges the first day or two, and even this culvert. Normally, you wouldn’t think of having to lay down in your canoe as the whole Mississippi River runs through a culvert!

Dragging to the channel

The early part of the river was the most difficult, confusing, and interesting. Occasionally the river would “braid out” into several different channels, eventually disappearing into the alders or grasses. Here’s a spot where I was forced to drag my canoe cross-country to a better channel. There were other stretches between Itasca and Bemidji where it was even worse. The river would disappear into cattails and “floating bog” where it was too spongy to walk on and but still impossible to boat through. I spent hours floundering half-in and half-out of my boat, looking for the channel. At one time I resorted to taping a mirror to the end of my paddle, which I held aloft to look for the river!

A bold mink

I got extremely close to this mink! I also saw bands of otters and deer frequently on the upper river. One day I saw what I took to be a black lab swimming across the river. It turned out to be a black bear! I also saw raccoons swimming the river. Hundreds of miles downriver, I saw deer swimming across where it was a mile or more wide.

Sunset near Bemidji

The wonderful light is what I’ll remember most about the river. I saw many awesome sunrises and sunsets, including this one as I approached Bemidji just as a storm ended.

Evening reflection

I especially liked the river in the evening, with the beautiful low light reflecting off the glassy water.

Still Waters

The Mississippi in northern Minnesota flows through some stretches of beautiful wilderness country.

Lake Winnibigoshish

It is nearly 10 miles across as the crow flies. Crossing straight across such a big lake in an open canoe is asking for trouble, and has killed many people through the years. The wind and waves can come up faster than a paddler can get to shore. Be smart and take the time to paddle a reasonable distance from shore. I ALWAYS wore my life jacket when out on the water.

 

2 Comments

  1. MICHAEL JAMES STONE

    HEY BRUCE,

    Fellow Alaskan sort of, ten years or more all over the state , Ketch, Anchor, Nome, King, Nak etc.

    Just wanted to give a shout out and thank you for info. I’m going down the Miss in May 5 2016. I’m doing two inflatables and taking my time ending in the Gulf Earliest 4 months latest 6.

    My “alaska ” experience has me bring “too much” gear and many things I can improvise. Because it’s early season in Minne even with an El Nino, I’m carrying some winter gear and mailing back home June 1.

    I’m doing as much electronics as can be and normal living as should be and since I can carry about 800lbs a gear. I’m doing alot of water and food.

    In fact most of what I am taking on this trip I would be taking the same if I were in Alaska.

    I am read up on quite a few of you who have made the trip and followed up with Facebooking many paddlers both canoe and Sea Kayaks and ONE who took two Sea Eagle Inflatables all the way down.

    I’m building a site for the journals, pics and vids I hope to do. http://mrnetbizness.wix.com/mississippi and have some Facebook pages etc, but I included some fun music and things on the web site including links to yours and others and a snapshot recommendation to others.

    I pretty much have added things I heard each person mention from all the sites and anticipated things each encountered and how I would approach, then added a back up solution in case. I tend to have a fall back on everything no matter what I plan out. I have plotted out on topos and GPS with alternatives and likely a slower course than realistic but I have enjoyed it and look forward to the reality.

    Just wanted to give a shout out and say thank you and oh yeah………..

    If I could ever get back to Alaska……..

    • Bruce "Buck" Nelson

      Hi Michael,

      You’ve lived in a lot of places in Alaska!

      That’s great you are researching your trip thoroughly.

      I see you’re bringing two inflatables. Are you going with a partner or two?

      I’m sure you’ve seen my planning page. Some years you’d run into ice on the upper river on May 5. Just something to think about.

      Another consideration is weight. There are about a dozen portages above the Twin Cities, and I did some portages below the Twin Cities as well, so you’ll be carrying that weight many times.

      I’m sure people will be interested in following along on your adventure.

      Thanks for letting me know about your plans. Enjoy your journey!

      Buck

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