My name is Bruce Nelson. I fought wildfires for a living, based out of Fairbanks, Alaska, where my smokejumper friends call me Buck. In the fall of 2000, I’d been fighting wildfires for well over 20 years. I realized that it was time for me to take a summer off to recharge my batteries and to enjoy some of the adventures I’d been dreaming about. In August of 2000 I left for six weeks alone in the Alaska wilderness (see photos here.) During a fall and winter of travel, writing and planning, I decided that I’d attempt a thru-hike of the Appalachian Trail. The “AT” proved to be one of the greatest adventures of my life. It went so well that I realized I would finish with nearly two months to spare. Along the trail in Maine one day, a hostel owner lent me his canoe.Out on the lake, I paddled along and gazed at Katahdin, the spectacular mountain marking what would be the end of my hike. It was then that it struck me that a long trip by water might a be perfect follow-up adventure. A canoe trip would be a totally different type of adventure, but where? How about the Mississippi? How long would it take to do the Mississippi? Can you even paddle the whole river in an open canoe? What kind of canoe would I need? I had a couple of days of rest in Millinocket, Maine, and there I had time to do a little research on the internet. From reading two or three accounts from other canoe trips, it looked like, if the river was high enough, (and therefore fast enough) I’d have time to make the journey in the 2 1/2 months left in my summer. Sounded good to me! Below you will find the beginning of some of my photos from the river. Included are some stories and information about the adventures I encountered along the way.
Lake Itasca
August 15, 2001, Source of the Mississippi
My parents, and niece and nephew (Markus and Annelise,) drove me up to Lake Itasca. From the landing at the Lake, I canoed the short distance to the outlet that marked the official start of the Mississippi. Here people photograph themselves wading across the river or crossing on the stepping stones. After portaging through the crowds, I launched into the shallow waters and waved goodbye to the family. At first the canoe frequently brushed the bottom of the shallow “river.”
Sweepers across the headwaters
Although I didn’t run across the countless beaver dams I’d heard of, I did run across many trees across the river. It was obvious not many people canoed this stretch of river. Nearly always though, I could find a safe way through without having to portage.
Mississippi River thru a culvert
There were a number of low bridges the first day or two, and even this culvert. Normally, you wouldn’t think of having to lay down in your canoe as the whole Mississippi River runs through a culvert!
Dragging to the channel
The early part of the river was the most difficult, confusing, and interesting. Occasionally the river would “braid out” into several different channels, eventually disappearing into the alders or grasses. Here’s a spot where I was forced to drag my canoe cross-country to a better channel. There were other stretches between Itasca and Bemidji where it was even worse. The river would disappear into cattails and “floating bog” where it was too spongy to walk on and but still impossible to boat through. I spent hours floundering half-in and half-out of my boat, looking for the channel. At one time I resorted to taping a mirror to the end of my paddle, which I held aloft to look for the river!
A bold mink
I got extremely close to this mink! I also saw bands of otters and deer frequently on the upper river. One day I saw what I took to be a black lab swimming across the river. It turned out to be a black bear! I also saw raccoons swimming the river. Hundreds of miles downriver, I saw deer swimming across where it was a mile or more wide.
Sunset near Bemidji
The wonderful light is what I’ll remember most about the river. I saw many awesome sunrises and sunsets, including this one as I approached Bemidji just as a storm ended.
Evening reflection
I especially liked the river in the evening, with the beautiful low light reflecting off the glassy water.
Still Waters
The Mississippi in northern Minnesota flows through some stretches of beautiful wilderness country.
Lake Winnibigoshish
It is nearly 10 miles across as the crow flies. Crossing straight across such a big lake in an open canoe is asking for trouble, and has killed many people through the years. The wind and waves can come up faster than a paddler can get to shore. Be smart and take the time to paddle a reasonable distance from shore. I ALWAYS wore my life jacket when out on the water.
- Mississippi by Canoe, Page 2
- Mississippi River by Canoe: Page 3
- Mississippi River by Canoe, Page 4
- Planning Your Mississippi River Canoe Trip
- Mississippi Mile Markers and Speed
Hi Buck. This is the second Time I have come across your blog I have been dreaming about a trip for some months now I have finally decided to someplace in my life I will take it I don’t know when that will be at this point I had just been thinking blogs like yours help me see that it was actually possible my triple restarting just south of the second them on the new Miami River near me I’m sorry great Miami river to the Ohio River did Mississippi at Cairo and onto the golf have not yet decided how I will get back I thought the time would be to bum a ride from the truck are heading to Cincinnati. I’m curious what you think of my plan I hope to use a canoe my dad nigh rebuilt we got it we put new rails and fiberglass on the 1902 Cedar Ridge canoe my thoughts are do you put large outriggers on it and decks solar panels and even a tent or mosquito net on top and use it as a catamaran once I get to the golf thing on having some real supportive ju and use it as a catamaran once I get to the golf thing on having some wheels for Porges because I know it will be heavy I have never been one to pack light always been one to be thorough My boat will be about 8 feet wide and 20 feet long but starting or I’m starting from my won’t have any coverts to go through although I do know I’ll have at least six Porges on the Mississippi thanks to your blog
Hi Kevin,
I like the idea of your trip! About the boat design, I have no experience with it so I can’t comment on specifics. I do know I’m a believer in keeping things simple and light, especially when portages are involved. I would recommend trying out any new ideas you might have before setting out.
Good luck with your adventure!
Buck
Thanks for the reply, Buck. I have a few questions for you. 1) Tell me again where I can get maps of rivers and of the Gulf. Currents and such. 2) somewhere I read suggestions of how much of what types of fish to eat ( ocean) due to mercury levels etc, but it didn’t say much about the mississipi? Any thoughts? Or are you more of a canoeist and not so much into fishing?
3) I noticed that you’ve probably blushed twice or more. I’m wondering if you’ve found or used or Coke a tossed other ways of to generate funds from the trip? Here are a ways I’ve thought of in planning, but are not all in my wheelhouse: publishing, website advertising, sponsorship, raising funds for a cause, like CF; which my niece has. Any thoughts, advice or sources you can give would be beneficial.
Hi Kevin
If you search through my links on these pages you will see map sources.
Nowadays I think I’d just use a mapping GPS with preloaded maps. I don’t know about maps for the Gulf itself.
I didn’t fish at all on the Mississippi so I can’t comment on fish safety.
I have always funded my trips out of savings, but it sounds to me like you have some ideas. Good luck!
Buck