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Month: June 2016 (Page 7 of 8)

Stone Leaves, Rock Trees

June 7, Day 76, 1447 Miles Done

Last night my spoon was missing, which was a bummer because a spoon is nice to have when that’s what I eat with! This morning as I was pushing off the kayak I noticed my spoon in about 6 inches of water. It was super fun to find it, somehow it worked it’s way out of the pocket I always carry it in. 

It was a nice sunny day. I launched just as the sun was coming up.  It’s fun paddling near shore where you can see the world slide by. It seems like there wouldn’t be much erosion along a reservoir like this but there was a tremendous amount of erosion today, with bluffs being washed away by wave action. Erosion has exposed many interesting things like coal, petrified wood in the like. 

During the midday the wind came up pretty good but it was still paddleable. I don’t believe I had headwinds at all today, it was all tailwinds or side winds. The water was rough enough for quite a while to require the spray skirt but I made good miles. 

At one stop I saw some of the type of rock that’s composed of layered mud and that’s the kind of place fossils often appear. I looked around for a while until I spotted a nice leaf print. 

Fossil Leaf Print


I ended up finding dozens more, including plant stems and other plant debris and leaves of various shapes including some that were nearly round. In one place I found a layered stone and started peeling it apart and almost all the layers had numerous impressions of ancient plants. It is absolutely fascinating to me to think of that ancient forest that no one ever saw and will never see, and yet now I’m seeing pictures of tiny parts of how it looked, millions and millions of years later. 
There were huge pieces of ancient petrified trees that must have weighed many tons. 

Petrified Tree Trunks


I found what presumably was a fossilized, very fast growing tree, below. If anyone has any other theories let me know in the comments. It certainly looks like wide tree rings to me. 

Petrified Tree Rings?


There were also boulders with ripples turned to stone. I really enjoyed finding looking for interesting things during my breaks and while near shore. 

About a week ago the goose goslings made their appearance and today the whitetail fawns.  A little spotted fawn was playing a game where he would let his mother get ahead of him and then he would run as fast as he could to catch up, waving his little white tail. With all the coyotes around it’s a skill he will need to use for real. 

I passed a small island that must’ve had 200 nesting terns on it. It was a tremendous racket as they all flew up and began circling me. Fortunately they soon dropped behind. 

Late in the day when I started paddling again after a break I suddenly had a sore spot on my right arm, maybe the Extensor Carpi Radialis Brevis muscle?  Anyway I had done about 30 miles already and decided to knock off early. I will work on paddling grips and motions that don’t aggravate that spot tomorrow and see what happens. 

Shortly before I stopped I saw the first oil well. I’ve got a very nice wind protected, hidden spot here. I was going to camp a quarter-mile earlier but there was a bald eagle nest there. I didn’t have coverage most of the day so I was delighted to have good coverage this evening to post my journal entry. Colter

Lewis: Wednesday April 10th 1805… The country on both sides of the missouri from the tops of the river hills, is one continued level fertile plain as far as the eye can reach… the bluff is now on fire and throws out considerable quantities of smoke which has a strong sulphurious smell. the appearance of the coal in the blufs continues as yesterday… we overtook three french hunters who had set out a few days before us with a view of traping beaver; they had taken 12 since they left Fort Mandan. these people avail themselves of the protection which our numbers will enable us to give them against the Assinniboins who sometimes hunt on the Missouri and intend ascending with us as far as the mouth of the Yellow stone river

Lewis: Thursday April 11th… Capt Clark and Drewyer joined us; the latter had killed, and brought with him a deer which was at this moment excepable as we had had no fresh meat for several days. the country from fort Mandan to this place is so constantly hunted by the Minetaries that there is but little game we halted at two P.M. and made a comfortable dinner on a venison stake and beavers tales with the bisquit which got wet on the 8th inst. by the accidant of the canoe filling with water…

Lewis: Friday April the 12th 1805. Set out at an early hour. our peroge and the Canoes passed over to the Lard side in order to avoid a bank which was rappidly falling in on the Stard. the red perogue contrary to my expectation or wish passed under this bank by means of her toe line where I expected expected to have seen her carried under every instant. I did not discover that she was about to make this attempt untill it was too late for the men to reembark, and retreating is more dangerous than proceeding in such cases; they therefore continued their passage up this bank, and much to my satisfaction arrived safe above it. this cost me some moments of uneasiness, her cargo was of much importance to us in our present advanced situation—

Trip overview and route map with position updates: 

https://bucktrack.com/Lewis_and_Clark_Trail.html

Petrified Wood

June 6, Day 75

I was the only one wheeling a kayak down the road before sunrise in the campground this morning. Many whitetail deer were stunned at the sight. 

There was no morning calm as I’d hoped, the wind was blowing pretty good. The map showed that I could reach a protected bay in a mile of paddling. I launched the boat and when I got a look at the waves I went back and put on the spray skirt. I paddled in the biggest waves yet because it was a safe opportunity to do so, paddling out of the marina like that. Straight into the waves it wasn’t too bad but I wouldn’t care to paddle bigger waves and I wouldn’t care to paddle all by myself on bigger water with waves like that. 

I was shooting for a gap in a peninsula. On the lee side the waves were quite mellow but when I went through the gap the water was too rough, as I expected. I turned around and slipped back through the gap and landed the kayak in a nice little sunny cove protected from the wind. 

It was a very pleasant spot to hang out. On the beach were many pieces of petrified wood. Some looked almost as if a carpenter had been sawing up one 1×6’s and left his scraps on the beach.  Others were much bigger, maybe 200 pounds or more.  

I set up my solar charger which I always enjoy. Free power! I climbed up a grassy hill from time to time to hang out and look out over the lake to see how the waves were. They were high. When I first got there it was still only about 7 o’clock, so later lying in the warm morning sun felt good. As the day progressed I lay in the shade of an ash tree. The only downside were plentiful wood ticks. 

About 2:30 I noticed the wind slackening. When I climbed the hill there were few whitecaps left. I launched the boat to see how it would go. There were still some decent waves, but the wind was much lighter and the water slowly calmed. After a while the wind died away almost completely. It took a surprisingly long time for the waves to diminish, but when they did I really enjoyed cruising along without fighting wind or current. I haven’t had such good paddling in a week or so.

There were some steep bluffs and interesting rocks and boulders. There was lots of coal and coal seams as well. 

One boulder in particular, perhaps 5 feet long, had a design on it that looked as if it of been carved by Mayans. 

Patterned Boulder


I also saw boulders that had been scratched as they were pushed by glaciers. On one stretch of beach were several petrified stumps!

Coal and Petrified Stump


I was able to beeline across side bays which saved miles of paddling. At about 8:30 PM I looked ahead and could see steep bluffs for two or three more miles. With a good landing spot right in front of me I took the opportunity to camp. Although I prefer camping in the trees or in well protected spots the winds should be light this evening so I’m camping on a fairly open gravelly spot. I think I did over 20 miles in that very short paddling day. Colter

Lewis: April 9, 1805: …the Indian man who had promised us to accompany us as far as the Snake Indians, now informed us of his intention to relinquish the journey…the Bluffs of the river which we passed today were upwards of a hundred feet high…many horizontal stratas of carbonated wood, having every appearance of pitcoal…squaw busied herself in serching for the wild artichokes which the mice collect and deposit in large hoards. this operation she performed by penetrating the earth with a sharp stick about some small collections of drift wood. her labour soon proved successful…
Trip overview and route map with position updates: 

https://bucktrack.com/Lewis_and_Clark_Trail.html

Garrison Dam Portage

June 5, Day 74

Last evening after I wrote my journal entry the wind calmed to a very placid evening. Except where the current swirled, the river slid past smoothly, hardly recognizable from the way it had been earlier in the day.

Just before sunset I heard some splashing that sounded like an animal walking nearby. When I heard it again I was wondering what animal would be so bold as to walk right past my tent. When I opened the tent flap to look out I saw it was five deer playing at the edge of the water across the river. It was so quiet and calm it sounded like they were just outside my tent!

With what has become nearly routine, a strong headwind predicted, I planned to get up at 4 AM to take advantage of the morning calm, if there was one.

I got a break, it was calm and I was paddling by about 5 AM. When I had visited the Knife River Village the river had come up a foot or more. This morning the river had receded 20 feet farther away, meaning it actually fell perhaps 2 feet, all due to the release levels of water from Garrison Dam, no doubt.

Dawn Launch

I had been fighting to make progress on this stretch yesterday and now I paddled smoothly up the river. Without the wind I found it was dramatically easier to read the current and find easier paddling.

Because I expected the wind to arise at any time I kept at it, paddling steadily.

After nearly 2 hours I came to a side channel that every boat on the river decided was THE spot to fish. There were at least four boats in one small spot. But what really caught my attention is that at the end of the channel I could see the dam.

“Will this take me to the boat launch?” I asked one fellow.

“Nope. Say, you’re paddling upstream? You must be one tough son-of-a-$&@?! to paddle up this river.” He explained that this side channel had washed out in 2011.

When I rounded the corner the wind was coming up and there I was more current. The last 2 miles seemed to take a long time. I had planned to take out on the east shore but the guidebook showed a take-out on the left shore, near the tailrace. The latter option was a shorter portage so I decided to go that route. When I made the paddle up there however, what apparently was the put-in/takeout was now riprap. I gave up a quarter mile of hard paddling to get to the boat ramp on the other shore,  but it was fun going downstream!

There was a nice gravelly spot to take out, out of the way of the numerous powerboaters. Quite a few people asked me what I was up to.

Once I got the boat repacked with the weight towards the back and the cart all set up, wheeling the boat down the paved road was remarkably easy. I pulled the boat up a long incline, all the way to the top of the dam, and then up another hill to get to the put-in.

It was only a few hundred yards past the turn-off to the put-in to get to Pick City, so I wheeled my boat right to the grocery store. There are going to be a lot of chiropractors busy next week because people about twisted their heads off watching the guy pulling the kayak down the road. I have been the center of attention for the last 2+ months. First, because I was walking down the road with a backpack, which is apparently a strange thing to do, and now because paddling upriver is a crazy thing to do, or wheeling my kayak down the road is a wacky thing to do. I guess it’s just part of the experience, but not my favorite part.

The little grocery store had plenty of supplies. I’d wheeled my boat right past the motel so I gave them a call.  I haven’t slept in a bed in a month so I thought it would be a good change. No one answered the phone,  however.

I went across the street to the bar and grill to get a hot meal. It was supposed open at noon but it was just after noon when someone came walking up the steps, apparently just opening the place. A meal seemed like it might take a while so I went down the street to another bar and grill where I should’ve gone in the first place, because it was hopping. It was packed with locals getting there Sunday lunch. My order was taken promptly and I was served just us promptly.

I wheeled my kayak back up to the intersection and down to the State Park. The young guy running the park entrance was very helpful. The wind was blowing hard now and predicted to blow through the end of the day, towards the south too, the wrong direction for me, so I was going to camp and get a good hot shower. I asked for a nice shaded spot. A young ranger lady walked in and together they picked the best spot they had. The bad news: it was about a mile out of my way, adding 2 miles to the portage total, which is significant.

It’s a nice spot however and although there were many people here when I arrived the place has almost completely cleared out this Sunday evening.

The shower house unfortunately had very cold water. Hot water was a luxury I was looking forward to. I looked at the map, located another shower house, and yessir, hot water!  I got all nice and cleaned up then took my clothes and gave them a good washing with detergent in the sink.

I hung everything out to dry at my campsite. In the very warm sun and very breezy breeze it didn’t take long to dry everything.

My daily mileage has taken a beating in the last week or so and tomorrow will almost certainly be another low mileage day. I’ll get an early start though and see what happens. I’ve gained a year on Lewis and Clark so far, so I guess I’m not doing too bad. 🙂

I keep expecting to lose cell/internet, and have been told I will for sure between here and Williston, so I may be out of touch a few days. Colter

Lewis: April 8, 1805 Set out early this morning, the wind blew hard against us from the N. W. we therefore traveled very slowly. I walked on shore… by land about four miles where I wated the arrival of the party, at 12 Oclock they came up and informed me that one of the small canoes was behind in distress. Capt Clark returned foud she had filled with water and all her loading wet. we 
lost half a bag of hisquit, and about thirty pounds of powder by this accedent; the powder we regard as a serious loss, but we spread it to dry immediately and hope we shall still be enabled to restore the greater part of it. this was the only powder we had which was not perfectly secure from geting wet.

Shabonah and his Indian Squar to act as an Interpreter & interpretress for the snake Indians-one Mandan & Shabonahs infant. Sah-kah-gar we a

Trip overview and route map with position updates:

https://bucktrack.com/Lewis_and_Clark_Trail.html

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