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Category: Lewis and Clark Trail (Page 10 of 49)

Continental Divide!

Dillon to Lemhi Pass

August 4-6, Days 134-136

August 4: There were nice wide shoulders with minimal traffic walking the last 6-7 miles into Dillon. I found another little fishing fly box with just a few flies in it.
I stopped at McDonalds for breakfast and to use their WIFI. I couldn’t get the WIFI to work, because it didn’t as it turned out. I surely enjoyed hot coffee and breakfast nonetheless.

In a little park I sorted out my trash and inventoried my food, then headed over to the grocery store and bought enough additional food for the estimated five days to Salmon. It is nearly impossible to leave a grocery store on a trip like this without some ice cream, do I bought a pint of strawberry. Good call.

I ate my ice cream on a bench out front and was joined by a 30ish fellow who called me “man” or “dude” at least twice a sentence if possible. He was friendly however.

I enjoyed my walk through Dillon. It’s become something of a groovy place which isn’t all bad. I had a guy watering his lawn top off my water bottles which he was happy to do.

Just before heading out of town I passed a Dairy Queen. Well I ALMOST passed it. It would be crazy to pass up this chance for my last hot food in days. Oh-oh, it doesn’t open until 11! And this is… 11. They unlocked the door and swung it open for me. Nice.

It was plenty hot walking out of town. Not Africa hot, maybe Tucson hot. Luckily I was walking a quiet frontage road. In a few miles I came to a bridge over the Beaverhead and walked down under it and enjoyed the coolness of the shade and river. After another very hot stretch I took Break Two in the shade of willows next to a babbling brook. For such a shade-scarce stretch I was lucky.

The scenery was great again, with mountain ranges appearing and receding as the miles rolled by. A typical scene would be irrigated alfalfa fields in the foreground, then grassy foothills with evergreens higher on the mountains, the tallest peaks topped with scree and rock and occasional small patches of snow.
Bluffs of brown rock now rose next to the river.

Cliffs over the Beaverhead

The frontage road disappeared. My choices were I-15, cross country, or the railroad corridor. I chose the railroad, walking the gravel bed for a couple miles, off the tracks. The Beaverhead ran to my right, with its unusual narrow, deep, fast, greenish water. When a rugged road appeared to my left I walked it until near dark.

A doe and fawn mule deer ran up the slope and watched from above. The old road skirted some cottonwoods. It would be dark soon. I turned up a side road and camped on flat, grassy ground next to a patch of trees and a brook.

August 5: I got an early start, hiking up the gravel road along the Beaverhead. It was amazing how there was far more water here than way downstream on the Jefferson, which also carries the water of the Bighole River. Most of those two rivers ends up on fields in a relatively short distance.

There were a couple of fishing boats and one wading fisherman. It was some of the best looking fishing water I’ve seen on this hike.

Just short of the Clark Canyon dam was a campground and fly shop. I swung in there and bought a Klondike Bar and an ice cream sandwich. It hit the spot. I filled up my water bottle before leaving.

I crossed the dam and walked until I got to the signs commemorating Camp Fortunate. With the island in the lake it reminded me of Crater Lake. Here the main L&C party met the Shoshone, and Sacajawea was reunited with her own brother, the chief! One of the most famous amazing coincidences of history. With Shoshone horses there was now a good chance of making the Pacific that year.

Site of Camp Fortunate

It was hot when the sun came out, and breaks were determined as much by heat as fatigue. Good shade was hard to come by. The best was a large, very long culvert under the road. It was almost chilly inside.

In the town of Grant I checked to see if the restaurant was open. I almost left when I heard some singing and piano playing.

“Are you open?”

“Not really, but I can get you something to eat if you like.”

I didn’t want him to go to all the trouble. Instead, for the next half hour I was treated to a couple more songs, and many amazing stories, including ghosts in the hotel, and the time he’d frozen his toe off and it grew back!

Down the road a badger ran across the road. Antelope fed here and there in the big sage. A donkey and three horses fed in a field. The donkey immediately decided we’d be best friends and came trotting over. He enjoyed a good ear scratching, gazing at me fondly. He followed along the fence as I left.

Donkey pal

I hiked until about 9 PM, camping nearly out of sight of sight of the road, on the other side of the fence from two bulls who were only marginally interested in me.

August 6: I kept waking up last night to get comfortable. My hip joints were aching. Not bad, just enough to be annoying.

The days are getting shorter. I was hiking well before sunrise, before 6. There had been almost no cars last night and there were very few this morning.

Willows grew along streams. Fields were dotted with big, round bales. I began to see more and more antelope. It was exciting to see the turnoff for Lemhi Pass. The Continental Divide! Whitetail loped across fields into the willows. Some groups of Angus chose to run, some chose to chase me until they got to the fence, and then follow along.

Bales and and Mountain

It was cloudy at first but when it started clearing it seemed destined to be a very long, hot climb up to the divide.

I saw some Clark’s Nutcrackers and a pine squirrel, many antelope, a mule deer. The day seemed to be cooling with some clouds moving back in. The scenery was wonderful, grassy valleys and sage running up to green fir and lodge pole. I passed a sign noting the approximate spot where one of the L&C men stood astride what they called the Missouri.

A brief rainstorm hit, I ducked under a perfect fir tree and was well sheltered. I looked at a roadside map and took a shortcut over to the Sacajawea/”Most Distant Fountain” picnic area. They think this is the spring Lewis described.

I got drinking and cooking water from the spring and cooked up some ramen. A pickup drove down the road up the hill with an obvious flat. Two older guys were having a tough time changing the tire. It was a rare event for me to be the mechanical whiz in a group.

They were very thankful, them and their wives offering a ride, food, water. But I had what I needed. Thanks!

I walked up the gravel road to Lemhi Pass and the Continental Divide, and I looked down into Idaho and the Columbia watershed. This was a huge landmark for Lewis and Clark, and for me as well, one I’d been imagining for many months.

Here two timelines of my life met, the me from 2010 when I reached this point on the Continental Divide Trail having hiked from Mexico; and the me currently on the Lewis and Clark Trail.

Lemhi Pass!

The sky was growing dark and thunder was rumbling. A cold wind blew with rain on its heals. I noticed I had coverage and retreated to the large overhang of a scenic outhouse to write this. I hope this rain is a heavy one and covers a big area for the good of the wildfires and for the rivers. Colter

Lewis: “Monday August 12th 1805 …at the distance of 4 miles further the road took us to the most distant fountain of the waters of the mighty Missouri in surch of which we have spent so many toilsome days and wristless nights. thus far I had accomplished one of those great objects on which my mind has been unalterably fixed for many years, judge then of the pleasure I felt in allying my thirst with this pure and ice cold water which issues from the base of a low mountain or hill of a gentle ascent for 1/ 2 a mile. the mountains are high on either hand leave this gap at the head of this rivulet through which the road passes. here I halted a few minutes and rested myself. two miles below McNeal had exultingly stood with a foot on each side of this little rivulet and thanked his god that he had lived to bestride the mighty & heretofore deemed endless Missouri.”

Clark: “August 17th Satturday 1805 a fair Cold morning wind S. W. the Thermometer at 42 a. 0 at Sunrise, We Set out at 7 oClock and proceeded on to the forks I had not proceeded on one mile before I saw at a distance Several Indians on horsback Comeing towards me, The Intertrepeter & Squar who were before me at Some distance danced for the joyful Sight, and She made signs to me that they were her nation…”

Lewis: “Saturday August 17th 1805… Capt. Clark arrived with the Interpreter Charbono, and the Indian woman, who proved to be a sister of the Chif Cameahwait. the meeting of those people was really affecting, particularly between Sah cah-gar-we-ah and an Indian woman, who had been taken prisoner at the same time with her, and who had afterwards escaped from the Minnetares and rejoined her nation.”

Trip overview and route map with position updates:
https://bucktrack.com/Lewis_and_Clark_Trail.html

Beaverhead Valley

August 3, Day 133

It was a good camp last night in Twin Bridges, along the Beaverhead River. No dew and no surprise attack of the lawn sprinklers in the middle of the night. I packed early so I could maximize walking while it was still cool. 

Twin Bridges Camp


The Beaverhead is a green valley owing largely to irrigation. Hay is big business in this country. A view from any high point is likely to show hundreds of sprinkler heads showering the fields. 

Many mountain ranges were visible, the Tobacco Roots, Highlands, the Pioneer Range and the Rubys, and most dramatic of all, the Anaconda Range, that I remember so well from the Continental Divide Trail. I had to look up some of the ranges on a map to get them straightened out in my head. 

I was taking a photo of Beaverhead Rock, that famous landmark of L&C, when someone pulled up: Jim Griffin! 

Beaverhead Rock


Lewis: the Indian woman recognized the point of a high plain to our right which she informed us was not very distant from the summer retreat retreat of her nation on a river beyond the mountains which runs to the west. this hill she says her nation calls the beaver’s head from a conceived remblance of it’s figure to the head of that animal…

Jim had brought me a fine picnic with a wide selection of ten times as much as I could eat. I had BBQ chicken, an apple, a sandwich, a quart of sports drink, chocolate, peanuts and probably more I’ve forgotten about. Jim’s lab enjoyed swimming in the river. I also got some food to go and topped off my water bottles which was a big bonus. Thanks Griff!

There was more traffic and narrower road  shoulders than I cared for, but it was easy to get out of the way. I must have seen about 10 long distance touring bicyclists, including a Dutch couple I talked to briefly. 

By mid afternoon I was getting two small blisters between my toes. Heat was a big factor. Sweaty, not fully toughened feet are susceptible. The afternoon felt hotter than had been predicted. I took a couple of long breaks when it was hottest. 

Evening was wonderful walking conditions, much cooler and the road now had wide shoulders. I walked until just before sunset. 

It was easy finding a place to camp. The road had a wide rightaway and I rolled out my bag and pad in a hidden spot. When the skeets showed up later I quickly set up my tent and slept well. Colter

Lewis: Thursday August 8th 1805… the Indian woman… assures us that we shall either find her people on this river or on the river immediately west of it’s source; which from it’s present size cannot be very distant. as it is now all important with us to meet with those people as soon as possible, I determined to proceed tomorrow with a small party to the source of the principal stream of this river and pass the mountains to the Columbia; and down that river untill I found the Indians; in short it is my resolusion to find them or some others, who have horses if it should cause me a trip of one month. for without horses we shall be obliged to leave a great part of our stores, of which, it appears to me that we have a stock already sufficiently small for the length of the voyage before us.

Trip overview and route map with position updates: 

https://bucktrack.com/Lewis_and_Clark_Trail.html

Twin Bridges

August 2, Day 132, Mile 2391

I walked down the quiet back road on the east side of the Jefferson River. Eventually the rising sun hit the highest peaks of the Highland Mountains, ten miles to the west. 

Three stones on the road shoulder marked the nearby tipi rings the rancher had told me about. Surely I would have missed them otherwise. Long ago Shoshone, Crow, Blackfeet, Gros Ventres: perhaps all of them at different times, or maybe people predating them, had camped here, a spot with handy water and good hunting. 

Light drift smoke from a fire in the Bitterroot Mountains hung over the peaks. Morning sun glittered on hundreds of sprinklers watering alfalfa fields. Scores of deer fed, muley and whitetail. A saw a band of about eight whitetails, all bucks I think, some old timers. The air smelled sweet from freshly cut hay. 

I crossed the Jeff at Waterloo Bridge. It was shocking how low the water was. An irrigation dam was diverting a significant amount of the remaining water, water that created those lush fields. Can the trout survive the falling, warming water? It’s a good illustration of the water rights and river health issues in the West. 

Across the bridge two local ladies stopped to ask if I needed a ride. Exceptionally cheerful, they were thrilled when I told them about my trip. What a happy world for the naturally good-natured. They insisted on getting a photo of me. 

The paved road heading to Twin Bridges had almost no shoulder at first, but when “41” joined it it had nice wide shoulders. The sun was now baking down on the black top. 

Road killed Bluebird, beautiful even in death


I stopped at the little store at Silver Star. Not much for food but it did have ice cream. I ate a Drumstick and a frozen malted milk, and then another. An older local guy asked where I was headed and was very tickled when I told him. 
“You have a good trip young feller!” He said as he got into his pickup. 

The store owner let me fill up my water bottles at a spigot. It was really hot now, I’d need it. 

When I got to the Hells Canyon bridge I needed some shade. Just as I reached the waters edge a big mule deer buck walked out of the willows, headed for the other side of the bridge support. I got my camera ready but he never walked out. Likely shading up himself. When I tried to look he trotted away. He was mighty close for a while! 

At about 4 pm the baking sun, mid 90s I think, became partially hidden by the sun. About 6 I made it to Twin Bridges.

The first restaraunt had an all-you-can-eat taco salad bar. Perfect!  I had a fine, leisurely meal in air conditioned comfort, talking to some friendly fishermen. 

I crossed the bridge over the Beaverhead River. Not far below it joins the Bighole to form the Jefferson, at the point Lewis left his note for Clark. 

I stayed at the very nice Bike Camp just across the bridge. A hot shower and a good grassy campsite made for a nice end to the day. Colter

Check out my prior post from late yesterday https://bucktrack.com/lewis-and-clark-trail/bear-caves-and-pictographs/

Lewis: Sunday August 4th 1805… arrived at… a river [Beaverhead] 50 yds. wide which Comes from the S. W. and falling into the South valley runs parallel with the middle fork about 12 miles before it forms a junction. I now found that our encampment of the last evening was about 11/ 2 miles above the entrance of this large river on Stard. this is a bold rappid and Clear Stream, [Big Hole] it’s bed so much broken and obstructed by gravley bars and it’s waters so much subdivided by Islands that it appears to me utterly impossible to navigate it with safety. the middle fork is gentle and possesses about 2/ 3rds as much water as this stream. it’s course so far as I can observe it is about S. W., and from the opening of the valley I beleive it still bears more to the West above it may be safely navigated. it’s water is much warmer then the rapid fork and it’s water more turbid; from which I conjecture that it has it’s sources at a greater distance in the mountains and passes through an opener country than the other. under this impression I wrote a note to Capt Clark, recommending his taking the middle fork povided he should arrive at this place before my return, which I expect will be the day after tomorrow. this note I left on a pole at the forks of the river…

Lewis: Monday August 5th 1805… This morning Capt. Clark set out at sunrise… the men had become very languid from working in the water and many of their feet swolen and so painfull that they could scarcely walk. at 4 P.M. they arrived at the confluence of the two rivers where I had left the note. this note had unfortunately been placed on a green pole which the beaver had cut and carried off together with the note; the possibility of such an occurrence never one occurred to me when I placed it on the green pole. this accedent deprived Capt. Clark of any information with ripect to the country and supposing that the rapid fork was most in the direction which it was proper we should pursue, or West, he took that stream and asscended it with much difficulty about a mile and encamped on an island that had been lately overflown and was yet damp; they were therefore compelled to make beds of brush to keep themselves out of the mud.

Trip overview and route map with position updates: 

https://bucktrack.com/Lewis_and_Clark_Trail.html

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