I start walking just about the time it was light enough to see. I mixed up some cold coffee in a bottle. It’s a Korean coffee mix, “Maxim” which came highly recommended. It’s good stuff, when I remember to make it. 

The trail ran near the river for miles, which is something I enjoy. 


Katy Trail along Missouri River

Katy Trail along Missouri River

A sign marked the June 6, 1804 L&C campsite. 


Wednesday the 6th of June 1804…Some wind in the after part of to day from the S E, (the Banks are falling in greatly in this part of the river) as also is one Side or the other in all the Course, we assended on the North Side of the Isd. and finding that the perogues Could not Keep up Camped 2 hs. by Sun. on the Sd Sd the land below this is good…Some buffalow Sign to day I am Still verry unwell with a Sore throat & head ake

Right next to the trail was a cave with a brook running out of it, a cave seen by the Corps.  


Lewis and Clark cave

Lewis and Clark cave

Sgt. Charles Floyd, June 7, 1804

came 2 miles past Som springs Comes out of the clifte

The purplish blooms of the redbud tree decorated the cliff bases often again today. 

The Rocheport General Store appeared to be out of business. I couldn’t find any eateries open either. Instead I munched on some leftover hot dog buns. 

The trail passed through a a scenic tunnel. I ran into a couple of super friendly middle aged bicyclists. 


Rocheport  Katy  Trail Tunnel

Rocheport Katy Trail Tunnel

“Are you on a long journey,  or preparing for one?” the lady said, excited for the answer. Commonly people can’t relate, or don’t care, perfectly acceptable attitudes.  They could relate, and they were enthusiastic. It was fun. 

It was shortly after they left, however, that the day went from a scenic spring walk to a windy slog. There were numerous other bicyclists out on this Sunday. Before though, it seemed the majority of bikers (mostly appearing on weekends) wore all the “official” gear, many part of small groups. Today there seemed to be mostly couples or friends, wearing their everyday clothes. And a significant percentage seemed to be grimly pedaling to get the ride over with. 

I had grown so accustomed to happily following the Katy Trail that I failed to follow my own alternate route near Boonville, one that would have saved me about two miles of buffeting and at least some sand in the teeth. 

I was however, now on the route of the Santa Fe Trail, which I followed on my first crossing of the Missouri River. It was so freaking windy on the bridge I was afraid my iPhone/camera would be torn out of my hands and I had to hold onto my hat, and grasp loose straps to keep from getting painfully whipped in the face. 


Missouri River Boonville

Missouri River Boonville

The enthusiastic couple recommended the Hotel Frederick. I was going to throw frugality to the wind and stay there, handily on the trail,  but it turned out they were booked. My second choice for lodging said the Casino would give me a ride to their place. When I asked the (on trail) Casino at 4:59 when the next hourly shuttle was, they said 5:00. I ran outside but it had left early. The valet lady was awesome. I was smitten by her sense of duty and hustle. She was a whirlwind of motion and problem solving, and tried to get the shuttle to give me an early shuttle. Me, I wanted to get out of the wind and my shoes. 

Finally I was at my room. I got a hot bath and two cheeseburgers and a salad. I also made the decision to take my first “zero” day. As in zero miles. Monday would be a day to rest my feet from the hard-packed trail. 


Trip overview and route map with position updates: