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40 Mile Day

This is a post from when I had no coverage. I just made a post for July 11 as well

June 28

I slept great. Only natural sounds surrounded me: frogs, crickets, a mule deer bounding.
I repacked the kayak with a great deal more care, storing food and water I won’t need the next few days in the bow and stern, and things I’ll need today in handy places.

My goal was more big miles. I wanted to get this last big Missouri lake behind me while the weather held.

I barely spotted two people in sculling boats along the opposite shore. I’d hoped to talk to them. Shortly thereafter I saw two tents in the pines. I stopped. It was Mike and Dillon and Cookie the dog, headed to St Louis. It was fun talking to fellow paddlers. Their weather report said big winds coming up today. I headed back out to put in more miles if their report was right.

Several fisherman asked where I was headed and seemed either amazed or incredulous.
Two animals were feeding near shore. Bighorns! Two young rams. It was fun to see another large mammal species. I didn’t realize there were any around here.

Bighorn Rams

Bighorn Rams

A paddlefish leapt out of the water, his big paddle nose leading the way, landing with a huge splash. Later there was another. A thousand miles of paddling and I finally got a couple of good looks at them.

As I neared 40 miles of paddling I watched for campsites. The distant shore had pines. When I checked out a possible site on this shore it was best described as creepy. The water was full of silt and weeds, the shore muddy, the bluff susceptible to landslides and the ground covered with thistles. The next spot was similar. The third was much improved. Good thing because I was tired. Colter

Lewis: Saturday May 11th 1805… the courant strong; and river very crooked; the banks are falling in very fast; I sometimes wonder that some of our canoes or perogues are not swallowed up by means of these immence masses of earth which are eternally precipitating themselves into the river; we have had many hair breadth escapes from them… my attention was struck by one of the Party runing at a distance towards us and making signs and hollowing as if in distress… he informed me… he had shot a brown bear which immediately turned on him and pursued him a considerable distance but he had wounded it so badly that it could not overtake him; I immediately turned out with seven of the party in quest of this monster, we at length found his trale and persued him about a mile by the blood… and shot him through the skull with two balls… we now found that Bratton had shot him through the center of the lungs, notwithstanding which he had pursued him near half a mile… these bear being so hard to die reather intimedates us all; I must confess that I do not like the gentlemen and had reather fight two Indians than one bear;

Lewis: [Clark?] 13th of May Monday 1805

In the evening the men in two of the rear canoes discovered a large brown bear lying in the open grounds about 300 paces from the river, and six of them went out to attack him, all good hunters; they took the advantage of a small eminence which concealed them and got within 40 paces of him unperceived, two of them reserved their fires as had been previously conscerted, the four others fired nearly at the same time and put each his bullet through him, two of the balls passed through the bulk of both lobes of his lungs, in an instant this monster ran at them with open mouth, the two who had reserved their fires discharged their pieces at him as he came towards them, boath of them struck him, one only slightly and the other fortunately broke his shoulder, this however only retarded his motion for a moment only, the men unable to reload their guns took to flight, the bear pursued and had very nearly overtaken them before they reached the river; two of the party betook themselves to a canoe and the others seperated an concealed themselves among the willows, reloaded their pieces, each discharged his piece at him as they had an opportunity they struck him several times again but the guns served only to direct the bear to them, in this manner he pursued two of them seperately so close that they were obliged to throw aside their guns and pouches and throw themselves into the river altho the bank was nearly twenty feet perpendicular; so enraged was this anamal that he plunged into the river only a few feet behind the second man he had compelled take refuge in the water, when one of those who still remained on shore shot him through the head and finally killed him; they then took him on shore and butched him when they found eight balls had passed through him in different directions…

Lewis: we had been halted by an occurrence, which I have now to recappitulate, and which altho happily passed without ruinous injury, I cannot recollect but with the utmost trepidation and horror; this is the upseting and narrow escape of the white perogue It happened unfortunately for us this evening that Charbono was at the helm of this Perogue, in stead of Drewyer, who had previously steered her; Charbono cannot swim and is perhaps the most timid waterman in the world; perhaps it was equally unluckey that Capt. C. and myself were both on shore at that moment, a circumstance which rarely happened; and tho we were on the shore opposite to the perogue, were too far distant to be heard or to do more than remain spectators of her fate; in this perogue ____ were embarked, our papers, Instruments, books medicine, a great part of our merchandize and in short almost every article indispensibly necessary to further the views, or insure the success of the enterprize in which we are now launched to the distance of 2200 miles. surfice it to say, that the Perogue was under sail when a sudon squawl of wind struck her obliquely, and turned her considerably, the steersman allarmed, in stead of puting her before the wind, lufted her up into it, the wind was so violent that it drew the brace of the squarsail out of the hand of the man who was attending it, and instantly upset the perogue and would have turned her completely topsaturva, had it not have been from the resistance mad by the oarning against the water; in this situation Capt. C and myself both fired our guns to attract the attention if possible of the crew and ordered the halyards to be cut and the sail hawled in, but they did not hear us; such was their confusion and consternation at this moment, that they suffered the perogue to lye on her side for half a minute before they took the sail in, the perogue then wrighted but had filled within an inch of the gunwals; Charbono still crying to his god for mercy, had not yet recollected the rudder, nor could the repeated orders of the Bowsman, Cruzat, bring him to his recollection untill he threatend to shoot him instantly if he did not take hold of the rudder and do his duty, the waves by this time were runing very high, but the fortitude resolution and good conduct of Cruzat saved her; he ordered 2 of the men to throw out the water with some kettles that fortunately were convenient, while himself and two others rowed her ashore, where she arrived scarcely above the water; we now took every article out of her and lay them to drane as well as we could for the evening, baled out the canoe and secured her; there were two other men beside Charbono on board who could not swim, and who of course must also have perished had the perogue gone to the bottom.

Hard Earned Miles

June 17, Day 85, Mile 1647

The river didn’t give me any free miles today, but that’s to be expected when you’re paddling upstream.

I passed many broods of young goslings and ducks. I’d often paddle out into the river a way to reduce panic.

There was a group of young guys jumping in the river and doing a bit of partying. They said they were from the Fort Peck Reservation, addressed me as “sir”and asked a bunch of questions about my trip as I paddled, wishing me well.

A mule deer buck was feeding in the willows, already with tall forked, velvet-covered antlers. He walked down to the river bank curious to see what I was before bounding away.

There seemed to be considerably less slow current to take advantage of today, and a fairly consistent headwind as well. Long sandbars were common and I was often paddling back-and-forth across the river looking for a way around them. I’d paddle until I got tired and then take a break, then repeat, throughout the long, sunny day.

In the evening I was looking into the low sun and could see sparkling water droplets falling into the river from about 3 feet high. When the angle got better so I could see, it was a white tailed deer with water dripping from its nose.

Later I came around a corner and, looking into the bright light of the evening sun saw what looked like a person standing on the edge of the river. An eagle lifted its wings and took off from a driftwood stump.

I probably made about 22 miles today, solid progress given the conditions. At the end of the day I was paddling to reach a stand of cottonwoods to camp in but the bank was too steep. I camped instead among the willows, with far less, and far less aggressive, mosquitoes than there were at the confluence of the Yellowstone. Pheasants crowed all around me. Colter

Morning on the Missouri

Clark: 30th of April Tuesday 1805 The wind blew hard from the N E all last night, we Set out at Sunrise the wind blew hard the greater part of the day and part of the time favourable, we did not lie by to day on account of the wind I walked on Shore to day our interpreter & his Squar followed, in my walk the Squar found & brought me a bush Something like the Current, which She Said bore a delicious froot and that great quantites grew on the Rocky Mountains… The bottoms above the mouth of the last river is extensive level & fertile and covered with indifferent timber in the points, the up land appear to rise gradually, I saw Great numbers of Antelopes, also Scattering Buffalow, Elk, Deer, wolves, Gees, ducks & Grows—I Killed 2 Gees which we dined on to day Capt Lewis walked on Shore and killed an elk this evening, and we Came too & camped on the S. S the Countrey on both Sides have a butifull appearance.

Trip overview and route map with position updates:

https://bucktrack.com/Lewis_and_Clark_Trail.html

Seeing an old Smokejumper Bro

It might have been the coldest night of all, barely noticeable in my warm nest. What was noticeable was all the frost on the inside of my shelter this morning!  

Around 9 AM a young State Trooper pulled over and politely asked me what I was up to. I explained to him about traveling the Lewis and Clark Trail but such activity was part of a world with which he was unfamiliar. Nevertheless he  told me to be careful.   I was way ahead of him on that. Unless a car pursued me off the road I was in good shape. 

An hour later he was waiting again. Apparently dispatch needed more info. It was like when Tom Boatner and I were bicycling across the US years ago and in Texas a cop thought riding bicycles was suspicious, and called in our drivers license info. Today I mentioned that even the cattle and horses wondered what I was up to. “Even those zebras!”  I’m not sure how he had never seen the zebras, but with the photos of them, and showing him my trip plan, and the fact that I was 100% legal, he cheerfully wished me well once again. 

Last time I talked to a State Trooper while on an adventure, it was on the Desert Trail in Oregon. He greeted me by name. He not only understood the adventure but had been following along online! 

I passed a field of hogs with hundreds of baby pigs. It was entertaining watching them race around the field. 

Just before 3 pm I got to Platte City where Sean Phillips, my old Alaska Smokejumper buddy picked me up. He looks just the same. He showed me some of the sights and treated me to an epic meal of Kansas City BBQ at Arthur Bryant’s. 

I got to meet some of Sean’s friends and see his wife Alison and their great kids. It’s a cool house and awesome neighborhood. They made me a fine breakfast. Just for fun we stopped by and checked out an old cabin Sean restored, pictured.  

Sean Phillips

Sean Phillips

 

It is always great telling a few jump stories with old Bros. I really appreciate the hospitality Sean and Alison!

Clark

June 27th, Wednesday a fair warm morning, the river rose a little last night. we determin to delay at this Place three or four Days to make observations & recruit the party Several men out Hunting, unloaded one Perogue, and turned her up to Dry with a view of repairing her after Completeing a Strong redoubt or brest work frome one river to the other, of logs & Bushes Six feet high 

Lewis and Clark  Camp

Lewis and Clark Campsite June 27 1804

 

The Countrey about the mouth of this river is verry fine on each Side as well as the North of the Missouries
28 June Thursday took equal altitudes &c. &c. &c. & varaitian of the Compass repaired the Perogue Cleaned out the Boat Suned our Powder wollen articles examined every thing 8 or 10 huntrs. out to day in different direction, in examineing our private Store of Provisions we found Several articles Spoiled from the wet or dampness they had received, a verry warm Day, the wind from the South, The river Missourie has raised yesterday last night & to day about 2 foot.

Trip overview and route map with position updates:

https://bucktrack.com/Lewis_and_Clark_Trail.html

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