My name is Bruce Nelson. I fought wildfires for a living, based out of Fairbanks, Alaska, where my smokejumper friends call me Buck. In the fall of 2000, I’d been fighting wildfires for well over 20 years. I realized that it was time for me to take a summer off to recharge my batteries and to enjoy some of the adventures I’d been dreaming about. In August of 2000 I left for six weeks alone in the Alaska wilderness (see photos here.) During a fall and winter of travel, writing and planning, I decided that I’d attempt a thru-hike of the Appalachian Trail. The “AT” proved to be one of the greatest adventures of my life. It went so well that I realized I would finish with nearly two months to spare. Along the trail in Maine one day, a hostel owner lent me his canoe.Out on the lake, I paddled along and gazed at Katahdin, the spectacular mountain marking what would be the end of my hike. It was then that it struck me that a long trip by water might a be perfect follow-up adventure. A canoe trip would be a totally different type of adventure, but where? How about the Mississippi? How long would it take to do the Mississippi? Can you even paddle the whole river in an open canoe? What kind of canoe would I need? I had a couple of days of rest in Millinocket, Maine, and there I had time to do a little research on the internet. From reading two or three accounts from other canoe trips, it looked like, if the river was high enough, (and therefore fast enough) I’d have time to make the journey in the 2 1/2 months left in my summer. Sounded good to me! Below you will find the beginning of some of my photos from the river. Included are some stories and information about the adventures I encountered along the way.
My parents, and niece and nephew (Markus and Annelise,) drove me up to Lake Itasca. From the landing at the Lake, I canoed the short distance to the outlet that marked the official start of the Mississippi. Here people photograph themselves wading across the river or crossing on the stepping stones. After portaging through the crowds, I launched into the shallow waters and waved goodbye to the family. At first the canoe frequently brushed the bottom of the shallow “river.”
Although I didn’t run across the countless beaver dams I’d heard of, I did run across many trees across the river. It was obvious not many people canoed this stretch of river. Nearly always though, I could find a safe way through without having to portage.
There were a number of low bridges the first day or two, and even this culvert. Normally, you wouldn’t think of having to lay down in your canoe as the whole Mississippi River runs through a culvert!
The early part of the river was the most difficult, confusing, and interesting. Occasionally the river would “braid out” into several different channels, eventually disappearing into the alders or grasses. Here’s a spot where I was forced to drag my canoe cross-country to a better channel. There were other stretches between Itasca and Bemidji where it was even worse. The river would disappear into cattails and “floating bog” where it was too spongy to walk on and but still impossible to boat through. I spent hours floundering half-in and half-out of my boat, looking for the channel. At one time I resorted to taping a mirror to the end of my paddle, which I held aloft to look for the river!
I got extremely close to this mink! I also saw bands of otters and deer frequently on the upper river. One day I saw what I took to be a black lab swimming across the river. It turned out to be a black bear! I also saw raccoons swimming the river. Hundreds of miles downriver, I saw deer swimming across where it was a mile or more wide.
The wonderful light is what I’ll remember most about the river. I saw many awesome sunrises and sunsets, including this one as I approached Bemidji just as a storm ended.
I especially liked the river in the evening, with the beautiful low light reflecting off the glassy water.
The Mississippi in northern Minnesota flows through some stretches of beautiful wilderness country.
It is nearly 10 miles across as the crow flies. Crossing straight across such a big lake in an open canoe is asking for trouble, and has killed many people through the years. The wind and waves can come up faster than a paddler can get to shore. Be smart and take the time to paddle a reasonable distance from shore. I ALWAYS wore my life jacket when out on the water.
Would you please comment about the portage around Sartell dam, most especially “the put-back-in”?
I’m thinking of going a little further overland to the Watab river (just south of the 1st St. N. and Hwy 1 intersection in Sartell) for a possible easier and safer “put-back-in,” but the satelite view might be showing a falls there where the Watab empties into the Mississippi. Thank you.
Hi Jay, Thanks for the question. To be truthful, I cannot picture which portage that was in my head. That leads me to believe it wasn’t that big of a deal. If you haven’t seen it, here’s what this site said: The same day we had a second portage, around the Sartell Dam. This one was also described as a 300 yard portage, and was also longer than that, but was much less stressful. In fact, this walk passed right by a park and a bar/cafe called The Riverboat Depot. Sorry I couldn’t be of more help. If you need… Read more »