Author: Bruce "Buck" Nelson (Page 5 of 52)

I grew up on a dairy farm in east central Minnesota. I began fighting wildfire while going to forestry school and worked over 20 years as an Alaska smokejumper, the greatest adventure of my life. My home is a log cabin near Fairbanks, Alaska. Long distance hiking, canoeing, hunting and fishing are among my interests. Thanks for visiting my site!

3,000 Miles!

September 3, 2016 / Bruce "Buck" Nelson / 6 Comments

September 1-2, Days 161-162

September 1

“Should I pack up or wait for a while? It will likely get windier as the day progresses.” I took my time deciding as I slept in for a while.

When I looked at the river I decided to give it a try. After launching I was wishing I had been paddling earlier, but as the river turned the wind and waves built. I found a spot to land next to some reeds. After tying the kayak to some willows I find a nice shady spot in dry, dead grass. There I lounged and read.
In mid afternoon the wind seemed to let up a bit. I was antsy to make miles so I launched. The waves were definitely smaller. But then the river turned directly into the wind and the waves grew.

As Chris Hansen had warned, the bank was lined with rip-rap, and a railroad track, with rip-rapped shore as far as I could see. That would make it hard to land without damaging the boat on the rocks if the waves got bigger.

Ahead was a place where the bluffs receded from the shore. There should be camping across the track. I stepped out in knee deep water and carefully lifted one end of the kayak out of the water at a time, onto the rocks. When I climbed up to the tracks there was a lake on the other side! !&$@#. Ahead 1/4 mile were some trees. There should be camping.

I carefully launched, and several hundred yards later cautiously lifted the boat out again as the waves did their best to crunch the boat against the jagged rocks.

I loaded my pack and a garbage bag and went to check out the camp-spot. It was nearly ideal. The long, tall dry grass was flattened. It was well away from the tracks with a nice spot to set up the tent out of the wind and in nearly all-day shade. There were no roads. I’d have this place all to my self.
Back at the river I emptied the last items from the boat and carried it up farther where I tied it off in case the wind got crazy strong.

I’d done about eight miles. Better than nothing. What a beautiful, scenic site! No roads led here so I wouldn’t see anyone.

What had flattened all the grass? There were many old animal and fish bones, a can with teeth marks in it, a tattered piece of webbing, as well as part of an old soccer ball and tennis ball, both chewed up. I’d wondered what big animal had dragged those big fish out of the water over by the tracks. I think cougar kittens had been playing here a few weeks back! That explained the fish, the deer bones, and all the chewed up “toys” they’d gathered while the mother hunted. The balls had floated down the river. It made me smile to look at all those chewed up toys and all the flattened grass and think of the mock fighting and tugs-of-war that had gone on!

Camp. Note chewed up volleyball.

September 2

I slept great. There was a good soaking rain last night. Hopefully it was widespread, it’s been mighty dry and I’ve passed many wildfire burns.

I’d planned to spend the whole day here with winds predicted to even stronger. They were. Although I’d have preferred another big day of paddling progress I was happy to be stuck in one of my favorite campsites of the trip. One downside was no coverage to get caught up on answering emails.

I put out my solar chargers and reread most of “Outlaw Platoon.” When the sun finally reached my tent in the afternoon I just went to a nice shady spot around the corner. I also took several naps, something I rarely do under normal conditions. I had plenty of food and polished off a box of Girl Scout cookies Chris had given me. It was a very pleasant little vacation with no packing or unpacking all day long. In the evening quail called from the bushes. Crickets sang loudly.

Afternoon shade spot

Clark: October 18th Friday 1805… Several canoes of Indians Came down and joined those with us… The Great Chief and one of the Chim-na pum nation drew me a Sketch of the Columbia above and the tribes of his nation, living on the bank, and its waters… We thought it necessary to lay in a Store of Provisions for our voyage, and the fish being out of Season, we purchased forty dogs for which we gave articles of little value, Such as bells, thimbles, knitting pins, brass wire & a few beeds all of which they appeared well Satisfied and pleased. every thing being arranged we took in our Two Chiefs, and Set out on the great Columbia river… Saw a mountain bearing S. W. Conocal form Covered with Snow…
Trip overview and route map with position updates:
https://bucktrack.com/Lewis_and_Clark_Trail.html

Columbia River

August 31, 2016 / Bruce "Buck" Nelson / 0 Comments

August 31, Day 161

I took my time getting packed in the morning to give my boat repair a little more time to cure.

The wind was still light on the short paddle to Ice Harbor Dam. I had put the boat cart together before launching so all I had to do was slide the cart on and I was off. I had good cell coverage at the dam. We often forget there are huge areas of the world beyond the reach of cell towers; most of my route from Lolo Montana to this point for example.

There were many vineyards along the river now, along with all the orchards. Very pretty country.

A few miles short of the Columbia River I was surprised when my phone rang. It was another old smokejumper buddy, Jon Larson. He and Randi Jandt were driving through Pasco, he said. Was I by chance in the area? I said I’d be there in an hour! What a coincidence.

They were waiting for me at Sacajawea Park. It was great to see them. As we were talking my hiking buddy Chris Hansen drove up. That rendezvous had been planned. The four of us drove to a restaurant for lunch. What a fine group of people.

Jon and Randi

We said goodby to Jon and Randi. Chris drove to his place where I got a shower and did laundry. Next I picked up a few groceries for the next stretch of river.

Chris and I later toured the museum at Sacajawea Park. Very interesting displays about the Corps and local tribes.

Chris Hansen in a tule shelter

I loaded my kayak and thanked Chris, then paddled onto the Columbia River, a much bigger river than the Snake. I paddled about seven more miles before finding a good camp site just before dark.

Clark, October 16, 1805: …Set out early passed the rapid with all the Canoes except Sgt. Pryors which run on a rock near the lower part of the rapid and Stuck fast, by the assistance of the 3 other Canoes She was unloaded and got off the rock without any further injorey than, the wetting the greater part of her loading—loaded and proceeded on I walked around this rapid We halted a Short time above the Point and Smoked with the Indians, & examined the Point and best place for our Camp, we Camped on the Columbia River a little above the point I Saw about 200 men Comeing down from their villages & were turned back by the Chief, after we built our fires of what wood we Could Collect, & get from the Indians, the Chief brought down all his men Singing and dancing as they Came, formed a ring and danced for Some time around us we gave them a Smoke, and they returned the village a little above, the Chief & Several delay untill I went to bead. bought 7 dogs & they gave us Several fresh Salmon & Som horse dried

Trip overview and route map with position updates:

https://bucktrack.com/Lewis_and_Clark_Trail.html

Surprise Visit

August 31, 2016 / Bruce "Buck" Nelson / 0 Comments

August 29-30 Days 159-160, 336 Miles to the Pacific!

Early in the morning I heard a thump outside my tent, a jumping mule deer. I slowly stuck my head out and saw a mule deer buck and doe walking across the hillside.

The wind was giving me a break early on, with another orange sunrise. The low morning light made the relief of the brown basalt cliffs even more dramatic. This has definitely been one of the most scenic stretches of the Lewis and Clark Trail.

As I approached Lower Monumental Dam a big tour boat was just coming out of the lock. At the boat ramp I put the cart on and wassoon rolling along the road. I couldn’t find a very good way back down to the river but finally wheeled between two boulders and over some smaller rocks to the water.

I stopped to eat some blackberries and later spotted a huge dead sturgeon that must have been nearly 5 feet long.

I rounded the corner and spotted the dock for Windust Park where I was going to get water. A guy sat on the dock with two chairs and two beers. It was Rod Dow, one of my old smokejumper buddies. I was truly surprised. I’d had no idea he was coming.

Rod brought me ice cream, a cheeseburger, peaches and a list of food far to long to mention, with a whole bunch of food to send with me as well.

We drove into Kahlotus for dinner and so I could access Wifi to update my journal.

There was some epic story telling that afternoon and evening, although at one point he claimed I was telling one of HIS stories. Regardless it was a genuinely good time. We smokejumped together for twenty years. Thank you Rod!

Rod Dow!

Barge headed up the Snake River

August 30

I got an early start, hoping to make it to Pasco today. The basalt bluffs continued but as the day progressed the were getting lower in places and in others moving farther from the river.

Orchards were now visible, along with more irrigation. I heard some workers yelling back and forth and the sound of loud Spanish music.

A barge went by. I’m surprised, though, at how little barge traffic I’ve seen on the Snake. There seems to be a lot more stuff moving along the railroad track that is usually closely following the river.

I seemed to be sponging out more water than usual. Each time I get in and out of the boat considerable water runs off my pants and shoes. I was slightly concerned that the crack from below Great Falls had split again, despite my faith in the epoxy repair. I found a gravel bar and flipped the boat over. The crack had broken open. That was dispiriting. I had more epoxy, but a repair should cure at least 12 hours, preferably 24. If I had only noticed yesterday when I’d taken most of a sunny day off!

I found a better landing place and flipped the boat over to dry in the sun. Luckily there was great blackberry picking there. When the boat was dry I got out my roll of white duct tape and made a temporary repair. When I launched I made sure not to drag that part of the boat on the river bottom.

When I got to Charbonneau Park it was still only about 2 PM but I’d already come 27 miles. I decided to do the repair here, cutting short my big day.
It took a while to figure out where I should or could camp. I unloaded my kayak and set it up on a picnic table, mixing the epoxy before making the best repair I could, inside and out.

There was a weak cell signal but I still managed to get through to my parents to wish my Dad a happy birthday.

My campsite was in a quiet corner of the campground. I was tired and fell asleep early.

Clark: October 14th Monday 1805 a verry Cool morning wind from the West Set out at 8 oClock proceeded on at this rapid the Canoe a Stern Steared by drewyer Struck a rock turned the men got out on a rock the Stern of the Canoe took in water and She Sunk the men on the rock hel her, a number of articles floated all that Could be Cought were taken by 2 of the othr Canoes, Great many articles lost among other things 2 of the mens beding Shot pouches Tomahaws &c. &c. and every article wet of which we have great Cause to lament as all our loose Powder two Canisters, all our roots prepared in the Indian way, and one half of our goods, fortunately the lead canisters which was in the canoe was tied down…

Trip overview and route map with position updates:

https://bucktrack.com/Lewis_and_Clark_Trail.html

3,000 Miles!

Columbia River

Surprise Visit

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